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How to Make a Bong

Posted by Anonymous Monday, July 20, 2015 0 comments

How to Make a Bong



in this howto i will show you how to build a bong:


Find any type of bottle or can(a 2-liter bottle or 16 oz bottle works fine)


Punch a 1/8 inch (3mm) to 1/4 inch (6mm) hole. About 2 inches (5cm) from the bottom. This hole is where the smoke will enter the bong from your bowl and stem.


Place a tube in the hole at the bottom you've made. This could be a metal pipe, a hollowed out pen tube, or a stem bought at a store or online. Make sure it's at a positive angle, or else your herbs will get wet.


Make sure it's airtight! If it's not completly air tight than your smoke will go out of the holes where it's not supposed to! To fix this use either gum(works best) or tape. To test that its air tight, blow into the mouth peice and put your hand really close to the seal, and blow. If you feel air coming out, it's not airtight.



Attach a bowl to the end of the tube. If you can, pick up an inexpensive glass bowl from your local smoke shop, they will usually run about 5 dollars. You can also roll a cigarette with rolling papers and attach it to the end of the tube. Aluminum foil can be used but it is not recommended. Please check to make sure your bowl material is safe for inhalation before using.



Fill the bong with water, until the tube inside the bottle is completely underwater by at least 1 inch. You can fill it with more, but there will be less smoke in the chamber when you smoke. Make sure you don't put too much water, if you do it will drown your herb!

Load the bowl with your favorite smoking product, cover your clearing hole up with one finger. Light the filled bowl and hit.


How to Make Honeyoil

Posted by Anonymous 1 comment

How to Make Honeyoil



The Honey Bee Extractor lets you make fabulous oil in just minutes.


Ground bud in bowl

In my opinion as a Stoner, there is no smokable cannabis derivative that gets you more baked than oil. Whether you call it honey or hash oil, it's the concentrated liquid essence of marijuana and it doesn't take much of it to completely stone you, though its mind-numbing power makes it an acquired taste.
Whether spread on a paper and rolled into a joint, inhaled through a straw from a hot knife, steamed in a Vaporizer or dropped onto ashes in your favorite bong, if you can manage to wrangle this gooey gold first from the plant and then from the teeny bottle it's usually stored in, you will be rewarded with lung-searing, brain-blasting fun!

Pouring ground bud into the solvent situation


The process of making oil always involves using a solvent of some sort to dissolve the cannabis resins off the plant material, then somehow separating the solvent from the resin. The quality of the oil depends on the quality of your plant material, the amount of solvent you remove from the finished product, and the amount of time your solvent is exposed to the plant material.


The Honeybee Extractor.


Like hash, you can make premium oil with shake or trim rather than bud. It's a fantastic way of using every last bit of foliage from your girls and easily turning it into something as valued as bud, or more. So of course, if you use trim from healthy, well-flushed, fully matured plants, you'll end up with more good resin to extract. If you use schwag, you'll end up with very little, less potent resin.

The amount of solvent removed from the oil is dependent upon what type of solvent you use and how you go about removing it.

Traditionally, isopropyl alcohol is used as a solvent as it's cheap, easy to come by and doesn't generally arouse suspicion from your local drugstore clerk. However, the problem with isopropyl is that it boils away at a relatively high temperature, making it fairly difficult to remove all of it from the finished product. Have you ever smoked thin, watery oil that tasted acrid? That's because not all of the isopropyl was removed. It's very unhealthy to be burning and inhaling alcohol. It's also a fire-hazard.

Fitting the butane...



Making oil with alcohol poses the same threat of fire, as you need to slowly boil off the isopropyl in a water bath, something that requires an open heat source such as an electric element or gas burner.

Alternatives to alcohol are ether and chloroform, both of which boil away at almost room temperature and therefore have a better chance of being completely removed from the oil. However, they are very hard to come by and there is the risk of not just fire, but succumbing to the anaesthetic fumes of either.

...onto the extractor.

The butane solution

In recent years, those in the know in Amsterdam have been using butane. The beauty of butane is that it's widely available, not outrageously expensive, and can reasonably be bought from your local hardware store as lighter refills.

Dutch seed guru Soma uses butane-derived oil in a 1:3 oil/bubble hash concoction called Jelly Hash, which can be stretched and played with like Silly Putty.

Another strength of butane as a solvent is that, because it's under pressure, it shoots out of the can quickly enough not to be dallying around the plant material. In order to get the resin into the solvent, the solvent is usually poured over the plant material or the plant material is soaked in the solvent for a short period of time and then removed. One concern is that if you expose the solvent to the cannabis for too long, you'll start to dissolve off not just the THC-laden resins, but also chlorophyll, waxes and other naturally occurring substances that will degrade the oil's potency, color and taste. So you want to get in and out of there as quickly as possible.


Enter the Honey Bee Extractor! Like Bubble Bags, the Honey Bee Extractor is a Canadian-made product that should revolutionize what we do with what we used to throw away. The instructions on how to make a home-grown version of this little contraption out of PVC pipe and such abound on the Web, but when I'm dealing with flammable materials under pressure, I don't trust my own MacGuyver skills. Besides, Honey Bee is made out of "Atomic-Age Plastics." Doesn't that sound like fun?

The basic concept is a thick plastic tube with a tiny hole at one end and a perforated cap with a filter at the other. There's a nifty little video on their website on how to use their device, safety precautions you should take while making oil ( wear goggles, no baggy clothes, don't smoke, use ventilation) and trippy techno beats. The Honey Bee comes with several filters, but I suspected that you could make your own out of unbleached coffee filters. I did that and it was fine.

Put bowl in another...

The procedure is simple:

1. Grind anywhere from 3g to 28g of shake/trim/bud (or some combination thereof) in a coffee grinder.
2. Put it in the Honey Bee Extractor and close the cap.
3. Hold the Extractor filter-side down over a Pyrex bowl.


...bowl of hot water.

4. Fit the tip of the butane can into the little hole.
5. Press down hard, waiting about 30 seconds or so for the Butane to flow out the bottom of the Extractor.
6. Feel like Bill Nye the Science Guy with your safety goggles on and the superkewl clouds of vapor rising about you!
7. Put the bowl in another bowl of hot water, or on a hot water bottle.


Remaining oil after the butane has evaporated.


8. Wait about 15 to 20 minutes for the Butane to evaporate completely.
9. Scrape the oil off the bowl.
10. Put it into one of those wee elfin bottles people put oil into.
11. Get very stoned.




Honey oil on blade.
I was truly amazed at how easy it was to make kick-ass oil. I used mostly Northern Lights #5 shake and trim, a little bit of Cherry Bomb trim and a couple of nuggs of Island Sweet Skunk for good measure.

Altogether I used 21g of ganja to make approximately 1.5 g of oil of two grades ? the first "wash" which is the purest and the second and third which were still pretty damn good. Both were deep amber in color and before I heated them, looked exactly like creamy taffy. Or perhaps, honey.

Honey oil on tin foil.
Most importantly, is Honey Bee oil any good? Well, I took my honey oil to the foremost expert in the field ? the host of Pot-TV's Grow Show, The 4:25 News and general weed aficionado, Marijuana Man. His response?








'Nuff said.

10 Reasons Cannabis Should be Legalized

Posted by Anonymous 0 comments

10 Reasons Cannabis Should be Legalized



How to clone Cannabis

Posted by Anonymous 0 comments

How to clone Cannabis



Pre-soak the rockwool: 


Treat the rockwool by soaking overnite in a 5.2 pH 1/2 strength nutrient solution (If you're using GH nutrients, that would be 2.5ml of each component per gallon of water.) 

Then, before squeezing out any excess solution,[Editor's note: never squeeze rockwool] rehydrate with a 6.5pH solution of the same strength. In other words, mix a gallon of 6.5pH solution, then use some of it to adjust to 5.2pH for the soak. Use up the remaining 6.5 pH solution until the clones root. 

I use Hydrofarm liquid cutting concentrate (HF cutting conc.), widely available Rootone F works as well. 



Prepare the clone: 


When taking a cutting, always plan on having at least one node inside the hole, and 4 to 6 nodes above. My cuttings are about 2.5 to 3.5 inches tall plus approx another 1 inch below the surface. The stem width of my cuttings (at the cut) average 3/32 to 1/8+ inch. 

1. Trim off the leaf/shoot that goes in the cube with a razor blade before taking the cutting (see above) 

2. Make the diagonal cut on the stem (from the mom) about 1/4 inch below a node. Use a new razor blade with a small piece of wood behind the stem to serve as an anvil for making a clean cut. 

3. IMMEDIATELY dip the bottom one inch of the cutting in the rooting liquid for about 15 to 30 seconds, tweaking it to dislodge any air bubbles that may be present. 

4. Then gently push it into the hole (I usually use large tweezers to poke into the rockwool about 1/2 inch from each side of the cutting then squeeze the rockwool to hug the stem). 

The first night the cuttings will droop, the second day they will start to lift their heads. 

I've taken clones rooted in rockwool and transplanted them directly into a pot with soil with no problems at all.. that's the joy of rockwool, virtually no transplant shock from disturbed roots. As long as roots can be seen coming from the rockwool cube it can be transplanted. 

How do you recommend supplying nutrients to the rooting stem? 
Nutrition is not as much of a concern as moisture is. 

Leave the cube in a humidity dome at around 80 to 85 degrees F, with about 30-40 Watts/sq ft of fluorescent lighting on for 24 hours a day. 

The cube should NOT sit in water. As long as humidity is high, you can spray with the 6.5 pH solution twice a day for the first 2 days, then once a day until it roots. But the humidity must be high; you should see condensation inside on the tray walls and maybe the leaves. I also spray the walls of the tray to keep it humid. Spray only the leaves not the cubes. 

Check for roots around the eighth day by opening a cube in half very carefully. White roots should be exiting the node. 

Keep in mind that the longer you have humid conditions the more likely it is to get mold or fungus; rooting quickly is one way to avoid lengthy humid conditions. 


Once rooted: 


When you first see the cutting is rooting through the cube bottom, you can stop spraying and start watering the cube, let the solution drain from the cube. 

This is a critical time:, when you see roots, water the cube and open the tent a little to allow humidity to escape AND CHECK EVERY 20 MINUTES for ANY SIGN of wilting. If after the 1st hour with no wilting open the tent a little more, and check every hour. After 4 to 6 hours with no wilting, you're ready to rock n roll. If any clones START to wilt replace the tent, spray leaves, and try again the next day. 

If you have some rooted, some not, go for the humidity for a couple more days. 

Using General Hydroponic's 'Flora' nutrients and rockwool, and Hydro Farm cutting concentrate, I root in 8 days with great looking clones. So there IS a difference in nutrients, medium, and rooting compounds. BTW use a fresh mix of nutrients, and keep the bottle sealed. pH can shift radically, but usually wont do so for the first 10 days if the bottle's kept sealed, out of light, and at room temperature. And don't forget HUMIDITY, HUMIDITY, HUMIDITY. But don't overdo it for too long or you risk mold and damping off.

15 Marijuana Infographics

Posted by Anonymous Sunday, July 19, 2015 1 comment

15 Marijuana Infographics


A Cost/Benefit Analysis

click to enlarge

Effects Of Marijuana On The Us Economy

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The Big World Marijuana Use Chart

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Alcohol V.S. Marijuana

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Is Cannabis Treated Unfairly?

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Marijuanas Effects On The Body

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Time To Legalize?

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Incarceration Rates Of Marijuana

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15 Things You Should Know About Marijuana

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10 Little Known Facts In The Medical Marijuana Debate
click to enlarge

Medical Marijuana
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10 Major Health Benefits Of Marijuana
click to enlarge

Measuring The Economic Impact Of Marijuana Legalization Of California
click to enlarge

Modern Uses For Cannabis
click to enlarge

Universal Highness Chart: Estimate How Hig You Are
click to enlarge



How to Scrog

Posted by Anonymous Saturday, July 18, 2015 0 comments

How to Scrog



This type of cultivation, called scrog, is based on the horizontal grow and it permits to optimize variable factors, as vertical space and light.The theory is very simple: a horizontal net (at about 10 cm from the medium) is settled, and the plant will be forced to pass through the holes of the net. This technique is particularly indicated for small spaces, where the height of the plant can be managed in a horizontal way. Moreover, scrog is useful to take the best from lamps: often the biggest leaves will overshadow the rest of the plant. The horizontal grow solve this problem putting leaves at the same distance from lights.The practical realization of a scrog, instead, is more complicated: you can use a net for each plant, creating a modular scrog, or a larger net with more plants under it. You can use a garden net, one of those with wide meshes, typically green.

Problems are about: the installation of the net, the disposition of the plant, the sex of plants. With a modular scrog we must install a net for each single vase. The problem is that the net cannot be fixed to the vase if we want to transplant it during its life.

With a normal scrog, the transplanting is very difficult because of the forced proximity of all the plants and because of the impossibility to separate them from the net. You have to calculate the disposition of your plants before positioning them, in order to be able to guide all the branches and to fill up the net uniformely, avoiding an excessive vertical grow.

In normal scrog, moreover, all the plants under the net must be of the same sex so it's advisable to use pipings.

It's advisable to know the characteristics of the growth of plants bofore beginning a scrog; unexpeted increases could cancel the optimization obtained with this method. The only disadvantage is the amount of work needed to construct and to upkeep the scrog. 


The Scrog Method


So, you want to tackle a scrog do ya? Excellent choice! Scrog or SCREEN OF GREEN is one of the most productive and easiest ways to grow indoors. Now lets not get this confused with the Sea of green method. SOG involves no training nor does it have one item a scrog always has. A screen. Scrog has been around for many years. Before HID's were introduces many used floro's with this method with good success.

Now lets talk about the scrog for a little bit here. What is a scrog? What is screen of green? Well, it is just that. A screen is the main character of scrog. It is usually made of wire or something sturdy enough to hold back the growing canopy. This wire should have some holes in it about 2x2inches in size so that the plant mater can easily grow up through the wire and be supported by it. The wire is secured between the grow medium and the lamp at a distance determined by the size of your lamp. We will get into that later. The plants grow through the screen about 3-4 inches and then are pulled back under and spread out where YOU want them to grow. Its as easy as that folks. Its a great way to grow. Let me put it this way. I have tried untrained methods like SOG and have never come close to the yeild I get with a scrog. Okay, sounds easy right? So, what are you waiting for?

Getting Started


This is the hard part. Getting started. Damned if it ain't for me man. I spend hours thinkin of shit before I do it. lol Anyway, this isnt rocket science. If you've already got an area where you established plants growing you are halfway there.

The SCREEN
Remember at least 2x2inch squares. You can use chicken wire as well or even some tightly strug rope but I would suggest wire. You need something strong to support the buds and hold back the canopy growth. The screen needs to be cut to size. The size of the screen is determined by the size of your lamp. Remember that to get the good bud formation you want from 50 watts per square foot so your screen size should not exceed that. Check the examples below.

-  150hps screen size 1.75ft x 1.75ft

-  250hps screen size 2.25ft x 2.25ft

-  400hps screen size 2.91ft x 2.75ft

-  600hps screen size 3.45ft x 3.45ft

-  1000hps screen size 4.4ft x 4.5ft


If your screen exceeds the 50wpsf thing alittle. Thats perfectly okay. Just dont overdoit. lol Now once you've determined the size of your screen and cut it to size. Situate it over your grow area and secure it into place. Just a few screws will hold it in place. Your mounting a screen. Not a twenty pound wall painting. lol.....Wait just a minute! You need to figure out where to set the screen. First, a few questions to ask. Is your lamp air cooled and what size is your lamp? These two questions determine how close you can get to your canopy. This is very important stuff. The closer you get the better off you are. If you do not have air cooled lamps then a simple fan blowing between the canopy and the the lamp should do the trick. Okay, now lets set that screen. Here's some examples of screen settings for hps's. These are not exact settings. They are just a baseline idea. If you can get your lamp closer. Good for you. If you can't. Thats okay too. Dont worry. If you've got the right watts per footage they will produce.

-  150hps 10-12 inches

-  250hps 12-15 inches

-  400hps 16-20 inches

-  600hps 20+

-  1000hps 24+

Your Plants

How Many Will I Need Under The Screen? Usually the rule is one plant per square foot of screen. I go with as few plants as I can whenever possible. One side of my flower chamber is almost 3x3ft. Thats almost 9 sqft. I only have 6 plants under there and the screens are pretty full. So, the rule does not always need to be followed. Having less plants can be a good thing if they happen to discover your illegal activity..lol.....Remember with fewer plants you will have to veg a bit longer but be patient and hang in there. Its well worth the wait.

Spacing Lets talk about the spacing between the plant medium and the screen. This space will need to be large enough to allow you room to manipulate your plants during the training phase. I usually use around 8 inches. Some people use more/less. Eight seems to be just enough for me but when working in a 3x3ft space it is still a tight space for a big guy. lol.....

What Is The Best Strain To Grow In A Scrog? Now lets talk about your plants alittle bit. What kind should you be growing in a scrog you ask? Hmmmmm. Well, any kind your heart desires my friend. That's right. Most any plant strain can be grown without much difficulty using a scrog. The secret is in the screen. Some strains require more training than others but that is the only difference. Heavy yeild indica's are excellent scrog candidates but the unruley sativa can really shine with proper training and timing.

Hydro or Soil?

So, how are you going to do this scrog? Is it going to bubble, flow or just sit there? Here's some things you may consider before your plants get tangled up in the screen.

Hydro: No real problem here. I prefer to scrog with a bubbler system over soil anyday. The problem lies in the flush. I explain below.

Soil: Soil grows and scrogs are a wonderful thing. Orgainc buds rule. One problem I ran into when scroging with soil was the flushing of the medium at the end of the grow. Well, with the plants tangled in the screen. One can not just transport to the sink and flush. My soil buckets drain into catch pans. Then I have to drain the catch pans. Takes a while but it works. Hydro is much easier though.

Okay man, you just did something that will almost double your yeild in the next sixty days. So, how do you feel about that? The screen is set. Now its time to move on to other things. Lets take a look at whats going to happen when these babies start to grow through the screen.

Managing the Scrog Grow


You have done some things that are a little out of the ordinary from your usual grow regiem. Things look a little different. A wire screen has invaded your grow space and it looks weird in there. Maybe you even have a few inches growth through the screen. What in the fuck am I gonna do now? lol.......Be cool man. Here's where the real fun begins and were the beauty of scrog growing starts.

Vegging: Here is where alot of people make mistakes. They get in a fired up hurry and get confused somehow. Flip their shit over to 12/12 way to soon and wonder why their screen never filled up. At that point the screen is nothing more than a support system for the plant. Normally one would veg a plant till the screen is 70-80 percent full before switching over to the flowering cycle. Having knowlege of how much your strain stretches is helpful when determining when to switch to flowering. For example: If one had a very stretchy sativa. You would want to start flowering her with much less of the screen filled. Just the opposite for a nice stunted indica. Timing has alot to do with scrog. We go over that soon.

Pulling It Back Through: Okay, so you've got some growth through the screen. Should have about 3-4 inches aye? Don't be a pussy here. lol....... If it breaks. I'll explain what to do later. Reach under the screen and pull that branch back under the screen and place it where you want it to be. Even if it takes tying it in place with the plastic twisty ties. Now I could really get technical and shit and start with the be sure there is an internode in each hole of the screen but it really doesnt matter man. Just get the growth under the screen first. In the next few weeks. You will see were to guide the new growth to best suit your needs.


Training: This can seem brutal to some. lol........ Scrog is not natural growth for the cannabis plant. I am sure of that. It must stress the shit out of them the whole cycle of life. Imagine taking a plant that usually grows anywhere from 3-12 feet and making it grow in a space no larger than 2 foot. Training begings in the pulling it back through section. Try to situate your main branches towards the barest parts of your screen. They will branch out the most and usually be the largest bud in the bunch. Use some kind of uniformity to your laying out of the branches. Crisscross/ zigzag whatever you use. Remember theres are going to be alot more branching when flowering kicks in high gear. So allow some room for that as well. Lesser buds that are now exposed to more light are then encouraged to grow upwards toward the screen through some leaf triming. An often debated subject but one I feel that is usefull in the scrog method.

Leaf Trimming: Now we need to chat about a touchy subject. Leaf triming. Like I said above. Scrog aint natural for cannabis. At least I dont think it is. Crammed in such a small area with all those leaves. Well, somethings gotta give and its not going to be bud. lol......Here's my rule on trimming. If the leaf is in the way of light for a bud site. Then it needs to be removed. Sometimes I tuck the leaf instead of removing it but most of the time I remove it. Now, when do I do this? Usually when I do a training session. Right afterwards. This trims away leaves and allows the new sites to get light. You will be surprised at how fast they will respond. Use good judgement when trimming. To much is not a good thing here.

Trimming continues into flowering ending during the later stages of flowering. I have found it not to be harmful at all to remove large fan leaves from buds during flowering. If they are blocking light to other bud sites near by. Its all about light penetration and bud sites in a scrog.



Timing: Timing is critical when it comes to a scrog grow. You must be paying attention to the progress of your grow in order to know when to induce flowering. Knowing what strain you are dealing with and what the growing characteristices of the plant are is very helpful when it comes to timing. I cant express the importance of having a good clone base for this purpose. As mentioned above if you induce flowering to early. You will have alot less of a yield. However, if one was to wait to long. The same can happen as well. An overcrowed canopy is just as much a mess. An out of control scrog is just that. A mess. Not something you want to deal with. Remember, the plants you start to flower are probably going to double in size. Stand back and get a visual picture of that in your head. Ask yourself some questions. If I start flowering now. Can I visualize how big they will get? Do I have enough veggative growth to start flowering? Do I have to much? Is it time? Time to start flowering?

Okay, so you've decided to start. Bravo! You are going to be amazed at the buds that come out of this grow. lol....... So, you have turned back the timer to 12/12 and it has been 4 days now. The growth from the stretch is starting to show. You get in there and pull all those new shoots back under your screen and put them where you want them to be. A few more days pass. More growth. Now the decision part comes into play. Just how far over the screen do you want your buds to be? If you stop training them early in the stretch. They will grow alittle above the screen (maybe 3-6inches depending on the strian). If you continue trianing them until they start to top out. They will grow only alittle more and most of the bud will form right in the screen. This technique is great for those stetchy sativa's. However when doing this method keep an eye out for mold and try to have as much air flow between the buds as possible. I have done it both ways and they are both awsome. It may take you a grow or two to get the timing down to where you want it but once you do. I am sure you will be pleased with the results.

Clones/Seed Grows: Here's an interesting topic that is sure to generate a few questions. I suggest clones for scrog growing over seed anyday of the year. Why? With clones you usually already know the characteristics of the plant and how it will perform. With seed its usually a guessing game as to which pheno your going to get unless they are true F1 seed. Plus with seed you dont know the sex yet. Ever tried untangling a male from a screen? Not something I would suggest doing. lol......Anyways, if you grow from seed. Be sure you have cloned the lot and know who your girls are first before going under the screen. This will save you alot of hassle later on.

Damage Control: If you move branches around and bend'em. Eventually somethings gonna give. Dont freakout. Its not the end of the world man.....lol... Cannabis is an amazing plant that can recover from alot of damage naturally without help from humans but in this case ya want to help if ya can. First aid for the injured cannabis plant is simple as pie man. Just support her wound and leave her alone. She will take care of it on her own. Unless you break her completely in half she can be saved usually. You can splint the wound or support it with some heavy gauge wire around the stem. If the break is not that bad and the branch can somewhat support itself. Leave it alone. In all cases. A knot will form at the break and most times an explosion of growth will happen above the damaged area. At times even new growth sometimes sprouts from the knuckle formed.

Flowering Cycle: Once a few trimmings are done and all is set in place flowering in a scrog is pretty uneventful. lol......Good time to start thinning out your undergrowth. I take clones around 20 days 12/12. If all that I need root. I clean out the undergrowth around day 35 12/12. Now if I need anymore clones. I can tak'em at this time. All the rest. Its butter makin time........Oh yeah.......churn dat budda........talk about a bonus for all your hard work.

Undergrowth: I mentioned it above but thought I should mention it again. The undergrowth is not that big of an issue here. Its an area that should be kept clear of dead leaves and you should also ensure that proper ventilation can get through the canopy via the undergrowth. If it cant. Then thin out some growth. This is an area that is dim and often humid. An open invitation for not so good things to come visiting aye? Some people have mentioned putting a light down there. Why? There's no need for a light down there. There are no buds to be harvested there. Just stems that support the canopy. If one were to put a light there they would just be adding to the congestion of leaves already growing. Not good. It is a good idea to clear out your undergrowth as your scrog takes shape and you have taken the clones that you need for the next grow. Trim all remaining sprouts left on the stems and any other undergrowth. Now lets not get to crazy here. Leave a little growth. Use some common sense here. Take out the sites you know are not going to make it to maturity. This will help the plant direct more energy towards the larger buds instead of wasting energy on the smaller ones.

Ventilation: Here's an issue that can not be overlooked. Once a scrog has been established it is a leafy sight to behold. Air circulation becomes critical as the buds begin to form and things start to get packed in the box. 24hr air movement is suggested 7 days a week. Better safe than sorry. Mold sucks.

Even Canopy: Maybe I should not put it in those words. Your canopy does not have to be perfectly even. Just close. The idea behind this is even light distribution. We are looking for a field of buds here not a forest like in SOG. If a dominate bud is allowed to overtake the canopy. It is defeating the purpose of the scrog. Tame that bitch. Bring her down to size with the rest. You want a somewhat even field of buds to deal with. Not a forest of untamed trees. The even canopy is easy to accomplish if you have been following the steps outlined above.

TrickyTip: Occasionally you will have a stretcher that decides that she wants more light than the rest of her friends. This often happens when the branches are competing for light. If one gets out of hand there is a simple solution to taming her back into the fold of the others and possibly giving her a burst of growth. Reach under the screen and find her stem. Half way up her stem start to pull her back through the canopy till she is even with the rest. Now where she is bent. Crush her at the bend with your fingers. Dont smash it in half. Just crush the stem so as it would not be able to support itself if it were to stand alone. As mentioned above. It will heal with vigor and you have solved your canopy problem.

The Beautiful and Productive SCROG


I cant express the joy I get from growing with this wonderful method. Through the years I have tried many ways but have never found a more productive growing method. I hope by passing on this information. Others will be more motivated to start their own scrog grow. If done correctly. I can almost gaurentee you will get more yield using the scrog than using the method you use right now. Considering the cost of electricity today. Getting the most out of your grow is the best way to go in my book. Good luck in all your goals and dreams. Give scrog a try. I doubt you will be disappointed.

How to make a waterfall bong

Posted by Anonymous 0 comments

How to make a waterfall bong


A Waterfall Bong is named after the waterfall that is made when the hit is collecting inside the chamber. For this bong you take a container that holds liquid air tight with a bowl like shape at the end (think soda bottle or juice bottle). Poke holes in the bottom of the container so the water can flow out of it. Fill the container with water and quickly attach your bowl and light it as the water flows out off the container. This will cause the bowl to fill with air from the only spot available the bowl, like in the Gravity Bong.



Things You Need:


  • 2 Liter Soda Bottle
  • Knife
  • Tin Foil/ Screen
  • Bucket or Drain


How To Make a WaterFall Bong

1.) First take your knife and pop 2-3 small holes(the holes need to be large enough to drain the water at a slow pace) in the bottom of your 2 liter
2.) Fill bucket with water
3.) Make a screen out of tinfoil the size of the mouthpiece.

How To Use a WaterFall Bong


1.) Fill 2 liter with water and cover hold in the bottom with thumb.
2.) Light the marijuana and release thumb so the water can pour out the suction will cause the chamber to fill with smoke.
3.) Once empty remove the screen and inhale.

How To Make FireCrackers

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How To Make FireCrackers


Time To Make:
45 Minutes


Ingredients:
-  0.5g weed for each firecracker
-  Ritz Crackers
-  Peanut butter / Nutella
-  Aluminum foil
-  Oven






Preparation:

Step 1: Preheat the oven to 250 degrees

Step 2: Using aluminum foil make a small bowl out of to hold your weed while you prebake it.

Step 3: Put the weed in the oven for 15 minutes. If your it crushes into dust when you pinch it then you did it right.

Step 4: Now raise the heat of the oven to 300 degrees, and wait for it to preheat.

Step 5: Apply a generous amount of peanut butter to each cracker.

Step 6: Now spread your weed evenly across half of the crackers you have prepared.

Step 7: Press each cracker with spread marijuana across it together with one without marijuana to form a sandwich.

Step 8: Wrap each sandwich you made completely with aluminum foil.

Step 9: Cook each sandwich in the oven for 20 minutes.

Voila!

How to make Dry sift Hash (A.K.A Kief)

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How to make Dry sift Hash (A.K.A Kief)



Flat screening removes the trichomes by rubbing the skuff over a fine steel or silk screen. This is a very simple process but the quality of hash is very dependent on the skill and patience of the maker. The principle behind this method is that the trichome heads are of a fairly consistent size, so that when applied to a mesh of the appropriate size, the trichome heads will pass through but other plant matter will be left behind.

You'll need a flat screen. Screens can be bought from printing supply shops for $10 to $30, depending on size, or you can make your own. To make your own, fasten four pieces of wood together to form a frame, then glue screening to the bottom. Small hole screens are best, between 125-137 lines per inch.

You'll also need a piece of glass or a mirror to collect trichomes, a credit card or something similar for pushing, and of course skuff.

Skuff used for flat screening should be dry, but not too dry. If your skuff is really crumbly, too much vegetable matter will pass through the screen.

Put the screen on top of the mirror or piece of glass and place the skuff on the screen. Using the card, gently push your skuff back and forth across the screen. Using minimal pressure on the skuff produces the best hash. The first layer of powder that comes through will be the most pure and potent.

Because the skuff must be in contact with the screen to remove the glands, it is almost impossible to get a pure hash through flat screening. For this reason, some people choose to pass their skuff through an old pair of panty hose or a screen with slightly larger holes first. This produces a mixture of trichomes and small bits of plant material, which is then transferred onto the small holed screen. The screen then only needs to be tapped to let the glands fall through and be separated from the vegetation.

Flat screen hash generally contains more contaminates than any other method. However, it is the simplest and cheapest way for the home gardener to make use of scraps.

How to make Dry Ice Hash

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How to make Dry Ice Hash


Not a particularly well-known method of making hash, dry ice hash has proven to be superior in both quantity as well as quality. It is extremely cost-effective and is perfect for growers who want to put their trimmings to use. You will need a bubble bag, a can or other container with diameter just smaller than the bubble bag's opening (a coffee can is usually about right), dry ice, large flat mirror or glass pane a hash press (not mandatory) and at least 1 ounce of trimmings.

First, place a piece of dry ice (about the size of a computer mouse) in your can or container. Place your trimmings and/or buds in the can on top of the piece of dry ice. Next, place a second piece of dry ice (about the same size) on top of the trimmings. Now, secure the opening of the bubble bag over the opening of the can and make sure it fits tight and secure. You will want to get the can as far into the bag as possible. Turn the can upside down so that the filtered screen on the bubble bag is over the center of your large glass pane. Begin to shake the can/bag directly over the glass. 

After about 30 seconds of shaking, you will notice a layer of kief begin to accumulate on the glass. Keep shaking for 5 minutes. After this, stop shaking and remove any remaining chunks of dry ice from the can. Scrape the kief into a pile and place in your hash press. A hash press can be purchased at any head shop (just be sure to ask for a pollen press). When pressed, this kief will become hash. You may also press it using paper by folding it and using your hands and body weight to firmly press the kief into hash. To get a lesser grade of hash, repeat the process with the trimmings you used the first time. You won’t be disappointed with the amount of hash you can get out of these buds/trimmings.

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