This type of cultivation, called scrog, is based on the horizontal grow and it permits to optimize variable factors, as vertical space and light.The theory is very simple: a horizontal net (at about 10 cm from the medium) is settled, and the plant will be forced to pass through the holes of the net. This technique is particularly indicated for small spaces, where the height of the plant can be managed in a horizontal way. Moreover, scrog is useful to take the best from lamps: often the biggest leaves will overshadow the rest of the plant. The horizontal grow solve this problem putting leaves at the same distance from lights.The practical realization of a scrog, instead, is more complicated: you can use a net for each plant, creating a modular scrog, or a larger net with more plants under it. You can use a garden net, one of those with wide meshes, typically green.

Problems are about: the installation of the net, the disposition of the plant, the sex of plants. With a modular scrog we must install a net for each single vase. The problem is that the net cannot be fixed to the vase if we want to transplant it during its life.

With a normal scrog, the transplanting is very difficult because of the forced proximity of all the plants and because of the impossibility to separate them from the net. You have to calculate the disposition of your plants before positioning them, in order to be able to guide all the branches and to fill up the net uniformely, avoiding an excessive vertical grow.

In normal scrog, moreover, all the plants under the net must be of the same sex so it's advisable to use pipings.

It's advisable to know the characteristics of the growth of plants bofore beginning a scrog; unexpeted increases could cancel the optimization obtained with this method. The only disadvantage is the amount of work needed to construct and to upkeep the scrog. 

So, you want to tackle a scrog do ya? Excellent choice! Scrog or SCREEN OF GREEN is one of the most productive and easiest ways to grow indoors. Now lets not get this confused with the Sea of green method. SOG involves no training nor does it have one item a scrog always has. A screen. Scrog has been around for many years. Before HID's were introduces many used floro's with this method with good success.

Now lets talk about the scrog for a little bit here. What is a scrog? What is screen of green? Well, it is just that. A screen is the main character of scrog. It is usually made of wire or something sturdy enough to hold back the growing canopy. This wire should have some holes in it about 2x2inches in size so that the plant mater can easily grow up through the wire and be supported by it. The wire is secured between the grow medium and the lamp at a distance determined by the size of your lamp. We will get into that later. The plants grow through the screen about 3-4 inches and then are pulled back under and spread out where YOU want them to grow. Its as easy as that folks. Its a great way to grow. Let me put it this way. I have tried untrained methods like SOG and have never come close to the yeild I get with a scrog. Okay, sounds easy right? So, what are you waiting for?

This is the hard part. Getting started. Damned if it ain't for me man. I spend hours thinkin of shit before I do it. lol Anyway, this isnt rocket science. If you've already got an area where you established plants growing you are halfway there.

The SCREEN

Remember at least 2x2inch squares. You can use chicken wire as well or even some tightly strug rope but I would suggest wire. You need something strong to support the buds and hold back the canopy growth. The screen needs to be cut to size. The size of the screen is determined by the size of your lamp. Remember that to get the good bud formation you want from 50 watts per square foot so your screen size should not exceed that. Check the examples below.

If your screen exceeds the 50wpsf thing alittle. Thats perfectly okay. Just dont overdoit. lol Now once you've determined the size of your screen and cut it to size. Situate it over your grow area and secure it into place. Just a few screws will hold it in place. Your mounting a screen. Not a twenty pound wall painting. lol.....Wait just a minute! You need to figure out where to set the screen. First, a few questions to ask. Is your lamp air cooled and what size is your lamp? These two questions determine how close you can get to your canopy. This is very important stuff. The closer you get the better off you are. If you do not have air cooled lamps then a simple fan blowing between the canopy and the the lamp should do the trick. Okay, now lets set that screen. Here's some examples of screen settings for hps's. These are not exact settings. They are just a baseline idea. If you can get your lamp closer. Good for you. If you can't. Thats okay too. Dont worry. If you've got the right watts per footage they will produce.

-  150hps 10-12 inches

-  250hps 12-15 inches

-  400hps 16-20 inches

-  600hps 20+

-  1000hps 24+

How Many Will I Need Under The Screen? Usually the rule is one plant per square foot of screen. I go with as few plants as I can whenever possible. One side of my flower chamber is almost 3x3ft. Thats almost 9 sqft. I only have 6 plants under there and the screens are pretty full. So, the rule does not always need to be followed. Having less plants can be a good thing if they happen to discover your illegal activity..lol.....Remember with fewer plants you will have to veg a bit longer but be patient and hang in there. Its well worth the wait.

Spacing Lets talk about the spacing between the plant medium and the screen. This space will need to be large enough to allow you room to manipulate your plants during the training phase. I usually use around 8 inches. Some people use more/less. Eight seems to be just enough for me but when working in a 3x3ft space it is still a tight space for a big guy. lol.....

What Is The Best Strain To Grow In A Scrog? Now lets talk about your plants alittle bit. What kind should you be growing in a scrog you ask? Hmmmmm. Well, any kind your heart desires my friend. That's right. Most any plant strain can be grown without much difficulty using a scrog. The secret is in the screen. Some strains require more training than others but that is the only difference. Heavy yeild indica's are excellent scrog candidates but the unruley sativa can really shine with proper training and timing.

So, how are you going to do this scrog? Is it going to bubble, flow or just sit there? Here's some things you may consider before your plants get tangled up in the screen.

Hydro: No real problem here. I prefer to scrog with a bubbler system over soil anyday. The problem lies in the flush. I explain below.

Soil: Soil grows and scrogs are a wonderful thing. Orgainc buds rule. One problem I ran into when scroging with soil was the flushing of the medium at the end of the grow. Well, with the plants tangled in the screen. One can not just transport to the sink and flush. My soil buckets drain into catch pans. Then I have to drain the catch pans. Takes a while but it works. Hydro is much easier though.

Okay man, you just did something that will almost double your yeild in the next sixty days. So, how do you feel about that? The screen is set. Now its time to move on to other things. Lets take a look at whats going to happen when these babies start to grow through the screen.

You have done some things that are a little out of the ordinary from your usual grow regiem. Things look a little different. A wire screen has invaded your grow space and it looks weird in there. Maybe you even have a few inches growth through the screen. What in the fuck am I gonna do now? lol.......Be cool man. Here's where the real fun begins and were the beauty of scrog growing starts.

Vegging: Here is where alot of people make mistakes. They get in a fired up hurry and get confused somehow. Flip their shit over to 12/12 way to soon and wonder why their screen never filled up. At that point the screen is nothing more than a support system for the plant. Normally one would veg a plant till the screen is 70-80 percent full before switching over to the flowering cycle. Having knowlege of how much your strain stretches is helpful when determining when to switch to flowering. For example: If one had a very stretchy sativa. You would want to start flowering her with much less of the screen filled. Just the opposite for a nice stunted indica. Timing has alot to do with scrog. We go over that soon.

Pulling It Back Through: Okay, so you've got some growth through the screen. Should have about 3-4 inches aye? Don't be a pussy here. lol....... If it breaks. I'll explain what to do later. Reach under the screen and pull that branch back under the screen and place it where you want it to be. Even if it takes tying it in place with the plastic twisty ties. Now I could really get technical and shit and start with the be sure there is an internode in each hole of the screen but it really doesnt matter man. Just get the growth under the screen first. In the next few weeks. You will see were to guide the new growth to best suit your needs.

Training: This can seem brutal to some. lol........ Scrog is not natural growth for the cannabis plant. I am sure of that. It must stress the shit out of them the whole cycle of life. Imagine taking a plant that usually grows anywhere from 3-12 feet and making it grow in a space no larger than 2 foot. Training begings in the pulling it back through section. Try to situate your main branches towards the barest parts of your screen. They will branch out the most and usually be the largest bud in the bunch. Use some kind of uniformity to your laying out of the branches. Crisscross/ zigzag whatever you use. Remember theres are going to be alot more branching when flowering kicks in high gear. So allow some room for that as well. Lesser buds that are now exposed to more light are then encouraged to grow upwards toward the screen through some leaf triming. An often debated subject but one I feel that is usefull in the scrog method.

Leaf Trimming: Now we need to chat about a touchy subject. Leaf triming. Like I said above. Scrog aint natural for cannabis. At least I dont think it is. Crammed in such a small area with all those leaves. Well, somethings gotta give and its not going to be bud. lol......Here's my rule on trimming. If the leaf is in the way of light for a bud site. Then it needs to be removed. Sometimes I tuck the leaf instead of removing it but most of the time I remove it. Now, when do I do this? Usually when I do a training session. Right afterwards. This trims away leaves and allows the new sites to get light. You will be surprised at how fast they will respond. Use good judgement when trimming. To much is not a good thing here.

Trimming continues into flowering ending during the later stages of flowering. I have found it not to be harmful at all to remove large fan leaves from buds during flowering. If they are blocking light to other bud sites near by. Its all about light penetration and bud sites in a scrog.

Timing: Timing is critical when it comes to a scrog grow. You must be paying attention to the progress of your grow in order to know when to induce flowering. Knowing what strain you are dealing with and what the growing characteristices of the plant are is very helpful when it comes to timing. I cant express the importance of having a good clone base for this purpose. As mentioned above if you induce flowering to early. You will have alot less of a yield. However, if one was to wait to long. The same can happen as well. An overcrowed canopy is just as much a mess. An out of control scrog is just that. A mess. Not something you want to deal with. Remember, the plants you start to flower are probably going to double in size. Stand back and get a visual picture of that in your head. Ask yourself some questions. If I start flowering now. Can I visualize how big they will get? Do I have enough veggative growth to start flowering? Do I have to much? Is it time? Time to start flowering?

Okay, so you've decided to start. Bravo! You are going to be amazed at the buds that come out of this grow. lol....... So, you have turned back the timer to 12/12 and it has been 4 days now. The growth from the stretch is starting to show. You get in there and pull all those new shoots back under your screen and put them where you want them to be. A few more days pass. More growth. Now the decision part comes into play. Just how far over the screen do you want your buds to be? If you stop training them early in the stretch. They will grow alittle above the screen (maybe 3-6inches depending on the strian). If you continue trianing them until they start to top out. They will grow only alittle more and most of the bud will form right in the screen. This technique is great for those stetchy sativa's. However when doing this method keep an eye out for mold and try to have as much air flow between the buds as possible. I have done it both ways and they are both awsome. It may take you a grow or two to get the timing down to where you want it but once you do. I am sure you will be pleased with the results.

Clones/Seed Grows: Here's an interesting topic that is sure to generate a few questions. I suggest clones for scrog growing over seed anyday of the year. Why? With clones you usually already know the characteristics of the plant and how it will perform. With seed its usually a guessing game as to which pheno your going to get unless they are true F1 seed. Plus with seed you dont know the sex yet. Ever tried untangling a male from a screen? Not something I would suggest doing. lol......Anyways, if you grow from seed. Be sure you have cloned the lot and know who your girls are first before going under the screen. This will save you alot of hassle later on.

Damage Control: If you move branches around and bend'em. Eventually somethings gonna give. Dont freakout. Its not the end of the world man.....lol... Cannabis is an amazing plant that can recover from alot of damage naturally without help from humans but in this case ya want to help if ya can. First aid for the injured cannabis plant is simple as pie man. Just support her wound and leave her alone. She will take care of it on her own. Unless you break her completely in half she can be saved usually. You can splint the wound or support it with some heavy gauge wire around the stem. If the break is not that bad and the branch can somewhat support itself. Leave it alone. In all cases. A knot will form at the break and most times an explosion of growth will happen above the damaged area. At times even new growth sometimes sprouts from the knuckle formed.

Flowering Cycle: Once a few trimmings are done and all is set in place flowering in a scrog is pretty uneventful. lol......Good time to start thinning out your undergrowth. I take clones around 20 days 12/12. If all that I need root. I clean out the undergrowth around day 35 12/12. Now if I need anymore clones. I can tak'em at this time. All the rest. Its butter makin time........Oh yeah.......churn dat budda........talk about a bonus for all your hard work.

Undergrowth: I mentioned it above but thought I should mention it again. The undergrowth is not that big of an issue here. Its an area that should be kept clear of dead leaves and you should also ensure that proper ventilation can get through the canopy via the undergrowth. If it cant. Then thin out some growth. This is an area that is dim and often humid. An open invitation for not so good things to come visiting aye? Some people have mentioned putting a light down there. Why? There's no need for a light down there. There are no buds to be harvested there. Just stems that support the canopy. If one were to put a light there they would just be adding to the congestion of leaves already growing. Not good. It is a good idea to clear out your undergrowth as your scrog takes shape and you have taken the clones that you need for the next grow. Trim all remaining sprouts left on the stems and any other undergrowth. Now lets not get to crazy here. Leave a little growth. Use some common sense here. Take out the sites you know are not going to make it to maturity. This will help the plant direct more energy towards the larger buds instead of wasting energy on the smaller ones.

Ventilation: Here's an issue that can not be overlooked. Once a scrog has been established it is a leafy sight to behold. Air circulation becomes critical as the buds begin to form and things start to get packed in the box. 24hr air movement is suggested 7 days a week. Better safe than sorry. Mold sucks.

Even Canopy: Maybe I should not put it in those words. Your canopy does not have to be perfectly even. Just close. The idea behind this is even light distribution. We are looking for a field of buds here not a forest like in SOG. If a dominate bud is allowed to overtake the canopy. It is defeating the purpose of the scrog. Tame that bitch. Bring her down to size with the rest. You want a somewhat even field of buds to deal with. Not a forest of untamed trees. The even canopy is easy to accomplish if you have been following the steps outlined above.

TrickyTip: Occasionally you will have a stretcher that decides that she wants more light than the rest of her friends. This often happens when the branches are competing for light. If one gets out of hand there is a simple solution to taming her back into the fold of the others and possibly giving her a burst of growth. Reach under the screen and find her stem. Half way up her stem start to pull her back through the canopy till she is even with the rest. Now where she is bent. Crush her at the bend with your fingers. Dont smash it in half. Just crush the stem so as it would not be able to support itself if it were to stand alone. As mentioned above. It will heal with vigor and you have solved your canopy problem.

I cant express the joy I get from growing with this wonderful method. Through the years I have tried many ways but have never found a more productive growing method. I hope by passing on this information. Others will be more motivated to start their own scrog grow. If done correctly. I can almost gaurentee you will get more yield using the scrog than using the method you use right now. Considering the cost of electricity today. Getting the most out of your grow is the best way to go in my book. Good luck in all your goals and dreams. Give scrog a try. I doubt you will be disappointed.

“The Sea of Green came about in the mid-1980s, supposedly originating in Holland as a commercial growing technique to bring decorative flowers to market quickly and easily. It was hailed as a new revolutionary indoor growing technique. Grow lots of weed in very little time using clones instead of seeds and the fact that every clone is female, makes things even easier. The idea is fairly simple: grow more, smaller plants, in less time, for higher yields. The more space you have, the easier it is to adapt to the sea of green. Horizontal space, that is. The sea of green method works well for people who have height restrictions. You could technically grow tiny buds five to seven inches tall. What results is a plant that is no more than 18-20 inches in height and packed together tightly in a small area resembling something like “buds on a stick” or “budsicles”. With little to no side branching, the plants grow straight up and form one cola. You also should begin with a plant that is suitable for SoG. That means a plant that is usually indica or indica dominant. Utilizing this technique and rotating the crops, you can create a perpetual harvest, producing dank, tight, THC laden buds every month of the year. All that is needed is one single mother plant. I will attempt to explain the steps of a basic SoG setup. What follows is a case study on my SoG setup. With a little bit of planning, almost anyone can do a SoG.

First, you need an established mother plant. You will have to start from seed, or a donor clone. From seed, it can take from four to six months to establish a stable strain and mother plant. If you are given a donor clone, then someone has already done the hard part, sexing, and picking out a good phenotype. The plant has to be established enough to take the max number of cuttings you will need to fill some of your space. This can be anywhere from four to six weeks, depending on the size of the plant and its vigor. SoG plants are always much shorter than plants grown from seedlings and they are flowered as quickly as possible in the SoG environment. You can not do this with seedlings because young cannabis plants are not sexually mature enough to be flowered like this. In fact, sexual orientation is generally not genetically determined until the third or fourth week pf vegetative growth. This same rule applies to feminized seeds that can become males under certain conditions. For example, you will want to take as many cuttings to fill just half or even a quarter of your total flowering space. Label, and date those cuttings. About 14-21 days later, take some more cuttings, label and date. About 14-21 more days, take a few more cuttings, and so on, until you have enough cuttings to completely fill your flowering area. A good strategy for keeping the mother plants short and producing lots of cuttings is to use the “fim” or “fimming” technique. This is a technique of topping that allows you to take your cuttings and shape the mother plant so that off one cutting, you get multiple other shoots/branches that grow out from the single cut.

Decide how many cuttings you want to flower at a time. For example, let’s say the total number of plants your flowering area supports is 12. You can take 3-4 cuttings. Wait 2-3 weeks, and then take 3-4 more cuttings meanwhile planting 3-4 of the original cuttings. Wait 3-4 more weeks; take 3-4 more new cuttings. This is how the rotation begins, also known as “staggering” your harvests.

The “in-betweens” are cuttings that are recently placed into the medium in the 5 inch pots, under florescent lighting 18 hours a day. The in betweens should stay in this area for about a week. Depending upon the strain, they can be in this area from one to two weeks. The idea is to let them gain enough root strength to really take off in growth. If the plant was taken as a cutting at 2-3 inches, it can grow easily up to 8-12 inches before being placed into the flowering area. The dreaded “stretch” is what you want to avoid in certain strains though, and only careful personal observation and verifying the strains traits and qualities, limiting the in between times for the plants that do have a tendency to stretch to about a week solves this problem

This is of course where the lights are always on 12/12. You can set the lights on 11/13, like I do, to save a little on the juice. This is the heart of the SoG, the main canopy of plants, in some sort of layout that is akin to a “bowl” or “bowl shaped”, where the smaller plants are in the middle and the larger plants on the outer edges of the light spread. Ideally, your plants should be on a table like setting on wheels, where you can have physical access to every part of the canopy for easy maintenance. The pots are a key part to SoG success, they are placed close together and are taller then they are wide, and are crammed together.

Let’s talk a little bit about the setup. I have a hydro setup, ebb and flow. I’m specifically using the baby bloomer trays designed and made by General Hydroponics. The dimensions are 31" x 12" x 12 it can fit ten, five inch pots. I have 14 of these trays logically configured in an 8 x 5 area. 3 x 1000w HID lights cover the area with about 420 thousand lumens two high pressure sodium’s and one Metal Halide (145k lumens for the hps and about 130k lumens for the mh). I have a 630cfm eight inch inline fan for the intake on a digital timer. I have a 430cfm Daton blower on the outtake, on a digital timer synchronized with the intake timer. The outtake duct goes into the attic. I plan to add a carbon scrubber on the end of the outtake line as soon as funds and time permits. There is a hanging deionizer. There are two other fans I use, one is a large oscillating 2500cfm fan, and the other one is a smaller, desk size oscillating fan. This really keeps the air moving in the flowering room. Because the plants are in the pots for the shortest amount if time, the smallest pot can be used. Most growers I know that do SoG use the 5 inch and 6 inch pots. I use the 5 inch pots and I only use 8 pots per tray, to allow room and space between the plants. What’s nice about the ebb and flow tray is you can move the plants around freely. The other nice thing about the ebb & flow system is that if one plant becomes diseased or infected it can come out right away, and the roots aren’t connected. Systems that have fixed plants (aero and nft systems for example) don’t do as well in a perpetual SoG. It has a 6 gallon reservoir, but I only fill it to 5. It is of course much easier if there is only one reservoir, only one tub to change, monitor pH, nutrients, etc.

Make sure you are proficient at taking and rooting cuttings before relying on clones as a primary source of incoming plants, make sure you have at least 90% rooting success rate. Read up on the following: How to Clone

By now, it should be obvious that you need a separate vegetation area for cuttings and “in-betweens”; concurrently with the flowering area. This is actually a very important cog of the perpetual SoG machine. While constructing the area for a sog it is generally good practice to allow between a quarter to a third of your area for the clones and mothers and in betweens. Ideally, you want the same number of plants already rooted and planted in pots, ready to replace the plants that are to be harvested. The next step is to decide on a rotation schedule that works best for your strain. I put a new round of cuttings in every 4 weeks. That way, I’m harvesting once a month and putting new plants in once a month also. I just so happen to have strains that mature at 7 and 8 weeks. I simply replace the harvested plants with rooted cuttings 4-6 inches tall. This depends on a few things, such as strains and their respective maturation times. So, it takes some calculating to determine the times of harvest for each strain, but the setup is actually ideal, if you’re going to be growing multiple strains. The flowering area is always at max capacity, or as close to it as possible. Here’s a quote from a webpage I found:

Sea of Green: The Perpetual Harvest

Hans Wright

New York: Sea of Green (0-9647858-1-1), 1998

“The Sea of Green is a specialized, mass-production technique for growing marijuana indoors in which the time required to bring your crop to harvest is shortened by controlling the light period. All aspects of the plant's life are controlled so that the shortest amount of time is taken to produce the largest amount of product in the least amount of space and a minimal amount of work.

We have developed this process into the 'cottage industry' of marijuana-growing techniques. That is because we have fashioned the process to be easily accomplished by the average person, using common, standard items and equipment . . .

Another dynamic aspect of the process is the 18' to 22' single-stalk bud. The growing of all nonessential parts of the marijuana plant is eliminated. The main stem and the lower part of the lateral branches are all unnecessary. The only part you really need to grow is the tip of the growing terminal: the 'cola bud,' the very best part of the plant. This takes only a percentage of the time and effort it would take to grow a marijuana plant using the standard method.

Using this way of doings things, you can harvest over two ounces of primo pot every two weeks! This can be done in any indoor space of any size, and you can decide whether you want to harvest at one-, two-, or three-week intervals."

“Just think of SOG like ANSI, its about common standards and practices” - Ozgrowa

The cuttings may have to sit under 18 hrs of light for a few days to reach their optimum heights. This is done in (preferably) another, separate area, under fluorescents or another HID light under an 18 hour regimen. You can adjust the rotation timings a lot of different ways, but this is what I have found to work best for me and the strains I have. For example, if you wished to harvest a plant every week, you could do so. All you would have to do is make sure a plant was ready to go in its place when you harvested. Or, you could set it up so you harvest every two weeks, or every three weeks and so on up to 8 weeks (or up to whatever the strain maturation rate is). So, the basic flow chart of a SoG might look like this:

1.)Take cuttings

I use cloning gel

Soak the cubes for a few minutes

Use a large nail to make the pre made hole a little deeper

Choose a 3-4 inch branch/shoot

Use a razor blade and make the cut

Dip/stir the cutting in the gel, really coat the stem with the gel

Document the strain and its orientation in the cutting tray so it’s easy for you to track your cuttings

Place cutting trays on heat mats and make sure ambient temps are around 72F.

2.)Plant rooted cuttings

The “in-betweens” are planted, at optimal heights of eight to ten inches tall. You will have to observe your strain, and determine the exact time and height to put them into the flowering room. It’s also a good idea to wait until your cuttings are rooted, bursting with roots, not just a tap root or two. They tend to do better all the way around. I’ve planted cuttings no taller then 2 inches and they ended up as tall as 22 inches (some sativa influenced strain), and also have planted indica strains at only 2 inches ending in heights of around 17 or 18 inches tall. The key is the root establishment at this stage. If you put a cutting that doesn’t have very many roots busting out, in a pot and place it directly into the flowering room, it may not get very big because it never got a chance to establish itself. So, if you want to minimize the veg time and maximize the plants establishment rate you want to have the root system just going bananas.  

3.)Flowering the plants 

Place the vegetated clone in the flowering area. Pack as many as you can together in a small area. I like to leave a little space between them to allow room for growth and good air flow. My general rule of thumb is to space them apart just so they are just touching each others leaves. If they are touching too many leaves, they are getting too crowded or are packed too close together.

4.)Harvest your plants

Harvest the plants and replace the harvested plants with rooted, “in between” plants. Ideally each replacement is at its optimal height when placed in the flowering room. Anywhere between 8 to 12 inches is optimal height. This is strain dependant. When I harvest my plants, they are typically anywhere between 8 to 20 inches in length when harvested. They typically have a weight of anywhere between 10 to 24 grams each. Sometimes I have seen some that have been more than an ounce each. A decent drying space is needed to dry and cure the wonderful weed. I have a drying rack I made out of a bakers rack I bought off of eBay. I made the screen shelves out of screen rolls and some stakes from the local nursery. I fashioned frames out of the stakes and stapled the screen to the frames. I can comfortably fit one bloomer tray worth of buds on the screen tray to dry. There is a clip on fan and an oscillating fan on a low setting directed on the rack to help facilitate airflow. It takes about a week (7 full days) sometimes a few more days more is needed to fully cure the really thick dank buds. I then place them in Tupperware tubs to be stored. If they aren’t fully dry at this point, I continue the process by simply opening the Tupperware tub at least once a day for a few minutes to expose the buds to the air. This is sometimes referred to as the “burping” or “breathing” method.

5.)Replace the cuttings

Take more cuttings to replace the cuttings transplanted to the “in between” area. Take as many cuttings as the next harvest requires. In other words, work backwards, from the very next harvest. For example, if I place an “in between” in today, in eight weeks I will be harvesting, so, I will need to have a clone already in between’d by then. I figure it should only take about three weeks or so to go from cutting to plant. So I figure three weeks or so backwards from the harvest date and that’s when I should be taking more cuttings to fill the harvest void. Add a few days, to compensate for the “in between” times.

In conclusion

As you can see, the sog technique isn’t quite for everyone. It challenges every aspect of the growing experience to the fullest extent. All your growing skills are tested all the time. From managing the moms to harvesting your plants, there is almost something to do all the time. It is more labor intensive because you are in more of a constant state of doing something. From making cuttings, cleaning the pots and the rocks, removing the dead leaves off some mother plants, and installing stakes for some plants that are falling over because they are too top heavy. You get the idea. There are many other reasons for utilizing the SoG technique. If one is into breeding, SoG is a good way to breed your strains and complete generations quickly.